Sunday, May 6, 2007

Day 28 - 07/04/07: Los Angeles (Beverly Hills)

The last day of this amazing holiday was finally upon us & as it was now just down to the 3 of us, we made a decision to spend the last few hours around the Rodeo Drive, just savouring this opulent, spoilt, totally consumer orientated past of the world.

Returned to the Hotel - The Peninsula - in the late afternoon & retired to the roof-top bar & pool to savour the last few hours of this amazing break watching the sunset in front of a roaring fire with a glass of French Champagne. Before you berate me for this decadent lifestyle, remember that it's all about the choices you make in life.

Were picked up just after 8pm & dropped @ the airport 45 minutes later for the flight home. Time then to plan the next trip to somewhere far away...

Day 27 - 07/04/07: Los Angeles (Beverly Hills)

Awoke after a good nights sleep in one of the most comfortable beds I've ever experienced - One of the highlights were the monogrammed pillow cases with our initials on them (CAM & SFO - some may say "wanky", I say "that's cool!).

Some history about Beverly Hills; It began with a Spanish land grant assigned to Maria Rita Vladez De Ville & known as "El Rancho Rodeo De Las Anguas - The Ranch Of The Gathering Waters). It was Spanish explorers & Missionaries who transformed California from Indian Territory to ranching & farming country.

Today Beverly Hills is a 5.7sq mile city with 33,000 residents & a daytime population of 200,000. The ties to entertainment remain strong & the city's 900 retailers serve as emporiums to the stars, with many famous names residing here. The powerhouses of the film industry, such as Castle Rock Entertainment, The Firm, Dreamwork SKG & many others also call Beverly Hills home.

Star gazing is a major past time with big name stars & the familiar faces of supporting casts spotted regularly around the bars, restaurants & clubs.

Today was designated "Shopping Day", so we headed off to the "Beverly Center" for some retail therapy. I had a lot of fun shopping in Macy's @ the Ralph Lauren area & picked up a bundle of bargains @ "cents in the dollar" of what I would have paid in Australia.

After shopping & lunch @ "Harper's" on Santa Monica Blvd, we headed back to the hotel to change, had a bottle of Moet in the lobby lounge & then headed out to dinner. We left the hotel at the same time as Wendy who was heading off to the airport for the flight home; Now when you stay @ "The Pen", you don't travel to dinner by taxi, no you take their "house-car", which is a "Rolls Royce Phantom". That was impressive.

Dinner was at another Beverly Hills institution "Mastro's Steakhouse", renowned for its steaks @ seafood. The amazing thing about the food & how it's served, is that the steak comes out on a normal plate that is extremely, and I mean extremely hot & the meat is actually still cooking on the plate as you begin to eat it - Wow. Again for the trip home, no taxi, the Rolls came for us again - could certainly get very use to this style of living.

Day 26 - 06/04/07: New Orleans - Los Angeles

Up fairly early & off for breakfast @ "Cafe Du Monde", a New Orleans institution since 1862. On the menu:
- Cafe Au Lait (made with ground Chicory Root) &
- Beignets (sweet pastries dusted with powdered sugar)- The unofficial doughnut of New Orleans.

From breakfast I walked through "Jackson Square", the heart of Vieux Carre, constructed with the symmetry of French & Spanish Colonial architecture and which opens up onto the Grand 1794 "St Louis Cathedral" designed by Gilberto Guillemard. One of New Orleans' most notable landmarks. This venerable building, its triple steeples towering above its historic neighbors, the Cabildo and the Presbytere - looks down benignly on the green of the Square and General Andrew Jackson on his bronze horse and on the block-long Pontalba Buildings with their lacy ironwork galleries. Truly, this is the heart of old New Orleans.

Once past this impressive cathedral, I headed for Rev. Zombie's Voodoo Shop to do the 10am "Cemetery History Tour - Cities Of The Dead..." This tour took us within the walls of the oldest & most interesting burial ground in all of New Orleans - St Louis Cemetery #1.

"St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 was founded in 1789, and it is the oldest cemetery in New Orleans. Located at the corners of St. Louis and Basin streets. At one time the cemetery was much larger (300 square feet) but today it is much smaller due to development around it. Like most cemeteries in New Orleans, most of the graves are above ground tombs or wall vaults.

Saint Louis Cemetery No. 1 was listed on National Register of Historic Places in 1975. It just recently (March 2004) benefited from a big restoration project.

Saint Louis Cemetery is supposedly haunted by the ghosts of Marie Laveau, a Voodoo priestess, and her daughter...both are buried in this cemetery. Supposedly they return to life each St. John's Eve and lead their faithful voodoo practitioners in a wild ceremony/orgy. The area in front of her grave is filled with all sorts of gifts left by cemetery visitors - beads, herbs, bricks wrapped in foil, dried beans, bones, etc. Also, her tomb is covered in small x's or crosses...people draw them on the tomb for luck. It's also said that if you turn around three times, either clockwise or counter clockwise, in front of her tomb and then knock on it three times your wish will be granted". Not sure about that, but I did leave a "dime" on her tomb for luck. Source: http://www.graveaddiction.com/1stlouis.html

Apart from visiting Marie Laveau's tomb, we also learnt the fascinating history & burial practices of this evocative above ground graveyard - which was also used in the movies "Interview With A Vampire" & "Easy Rider".

The history and mysterious world of voodoo was also discussed, with its connections to ancient West African religions & the crossovers it made with Roman Catholicism in the slave-holding colonies of the 1800's. Also caught a glimpse of what current practitioners are doing within the "Marie Laveau's House of Voodoo" on Bourbon St.

On completion of this great & informative 2-hr tour, I met up with the girls for the taxi ride to the airport for the journey back to LA (after another stop over in Dallas/Forth Worth - had a drink , but no haircut required).

Arrived in LA by 7.30pm & was @ our hotel thanks to a stretch-limo. The Peninsula Beverley Hills is home for the next 2 nights

Day 25 - 05/04/07: New Orleans

Today was "Visit a Plantation Day" & the taxi that we had arranged the night before to take us out there arrived @ 10.45am. After driving for almost 2hrs (it's a 45 minute journey, but he got lost 3 times!!!), the famous "Oak Alley Plantation" was finally spotted on horizon just before 1pm.

"Oak Alley Plantation" - The Grande Dame of the Great River Road is located in Vacherie, Louisiana, and rests along the banks of the Mississippi River between New Orleans & Baton Rouge. Built in 1839, the plantation is internationally renowned for its 800 feet long alley of 28 evenly spaced giant Live Oak Trees, from which the property derived its present name. Planted well before the house was constructed in 1837, this formal planting is a historic landscape design long recognized for its beauty.

This National landmark is recognized for having one of the most spectacular settings in the entire South and has been the setting for motion pictures such as "Interview with a Vampire" & "Primary Colours".

We did the 1pm tour of the mansion which was conducted by a guide dressed in period costumes and lasting about 40 minutes. What we learned was:

"Originally named Bon Sejour, Oak Alley was built in 1837-39 by George Swainey for Jacques Telesphore Roman, brother of Andre Roman who was twice governor of Louisiana. Joseph Pilie, Jacques Telesphore Roman's father-in-law, was an architect and is thought to have provided the design of Oak Alley.

Oak Alley's most distinguishing architectural feature is a full peripteral (free-standing) colonnade of 28 colossal Doric columns. Such plantation houses were once scattered along the Mississippi valley, though Oak Alley is probably the finest of those remaining.

In 1866, Oak Alley was sold at auction to John Armstrong. Several owners followed Armstrong, and by the 1920s, the house was is in a state of deterioration. Andrew and Josephine Stewart purchased the property in 1925 and hired architect Richard Koch to conduct an extensive restoration. The pale pink of the plastered columns and walls and the blue green of the louvered shutters and gallery railing were color choices of Mrs. Stewart at that time. Square in plan, the interior has a central hall from front to rear on both floors. At each end of both halls the doors have broad fanlights and sidelights framed with slim, fluted colonnettes. Rooms at the first floor rear were partitioned and adapted to modern uses at the time of restoration in the 1920s". Source: http://www.cr.nps.gov/nr/travel/louisiana/oak.htm

On the way back to New Orleans we viewed majestic Cypress trees in Louisiana's swamps bordering the Mississippi River. Back in New Orleans we dined @ a great little restaurant on Bourbon St & then I did "The New Orleans Ghost & vampire Tour" -the others said that they were tired - I believe that they were too scared to do the tour - that's what I believe...

The tour started at Flanaghan's Pub in St Phillip St, allegedly the most haunted street in the French Quarter. At 8pm the tour proceeded to weave through the shadowy, darkened streets taking us to locations associated with ghostly apparitions, paranormal activity and the supernatural as well as vampiric-style crimes.

Sites included:
* The Lalaurie Mansion - For more than 150 years, and through several generations, this house at 1140 Royal Street has been considered to be the most haunted, which in April 2007 Nicholas Cage allegedly purchased, and the most frightening location in the French Quarter.
* The Sultan's Retreat,
* The Witch of The French Opera,
* The Ghost of The Quadroon Mistress,
* Pere Dagobeat of the St Louis Cathedral
* The spectre of General P.G.T Beauregard, plus
* Anne Rice sites.

The tour went about 1.5hrs and although interesting didn't live up to my expectations, but then they don't always - not scary enough - To say that the scariest moment was when an egg was thrown from a balcony window and narrowly missed myself & the guide should sum up the tour...

Day 24 - 04/04/07: New Orleans

We allowed ourselves a nice sleep-in this morning & then arranged a "Combo-City Tour" with "Tours By Isabella", who are celebrating their 27th year in the tour business; so they must be doing something right.

The tour started in the famous "French Quarter" old Creole city - though less than a mile long & a half mile across, this area is synonymous with New Orleans - Its spiritual heart & soul. We discovered its history - When the city was laid out in 1718, the "French Quarter" (with its amazing architecture-lacy ironwork balconies, coloured rows of shops & shuttered windows)was New Orleans; "Jackson Square" & the impressive "St Louis Cathedral", soon followed as the city grew in numbers.

We drove past the famous "Pontalba Row Houses" of Jackson Square, built by Baroness Micaela Almonester de Pontalba during the mid-1800s, received an overall view of the mighty Mississippi River,levees & flood walls. Continuing by the French Market, the old U.S. Mint and the stately mansions along Esplanade Ave.

We then stopped for a guided walking tour of historic St. Louis Cemetery #3 on 3421 Esplanade Avenue. The St. Louis #3 cemetery is probably the most accessible as well as the largest of the St. Louis group. Established in 1854, it contains the outstanding Byzantine tomb of the Hellenic Orthodox Community and the final resting place of Storyville photographer Ernest Belloq.

Riding along peaceful Bayou St. John, we viewed raised houses from the late 1700s and had explained their architectural significance in a city below sea level. (Hint: they don't flood as they as built on raised posts). We continued on through City Park, and would have seen the antique Carousel, but had been removed as badly damaged by Hurrican Katrina, though the centuries old Live Oaks that thankfully had survived.

Along Lake Pontchartrain’s shores their levee system was explained and the longest of all Causeway bridges seen. We soon reached the London Avenue Canal Breach and the most sobering moments of the tour, where we viewed from the van the complete destruction "Katrina" had caused. We drive along the Lakeshore past the remains of the Southern Yacht Club and the marinas, reaching the second levee breach at the 17th Street Canal and viewed from the van the violent and utter destruction it caused to the Lakeview neighborhood. 18-mths later most of this suburb is still deserted - Just like a ghost-town.

We then stopped @ "Long Vue" Mansion & Gardens for a very impressive & informative guided tour of this 1939, 8 acre Grand city estate. Truly a masterpiece of unity between house & garden. The girls picked up some souvenirs of this unique structure. From one exquisite mansion to many more, we headed uptown to "St Charles Avenue", which follows the curve of the Mississippi, taking us past a few vast Universities, as well as Greek Revival, Gothic & Queen Anne-style grand colonial mansions. Then it was through the "Garden District", perhaps the grandest of New Orleans neighbourhoods; stately mansions surrounded by expansive & well manicured lawns & gardens, were the order of the day.

Downtown, we travelled past the infamous Superdome and through the heart of the business district, before returning to our hotel. We then headed down to "Bourbon St" for drinks & dinner - named not after the libation poured in its taverns, but for the French Duke of Bourbon.

Dinner was at a traditional Creole restaurant & had a "Po'Boy" - New Orleans version of the Submarine sandwich - Very, very yummy...

Day 23 - 03/04/07: Memphis - New Orleans

Enjoyed a relaxing sleep-in; well deserved after the early start yesterday. We still had the morning to explore Memphis, so made our first stop just before 11am @ the famous " Hotel Peabody", to see both the epitome of Southern hospitality & luxury & their famous "Ducks".

The "Peabody" was built in 1869 by Colonel Robert C Brinkley during the turbulent reconstruction era - The period (1865–1877) during which the states that had seceded to the Confederacy were controlled by the federal government before being readmitted to the Union. Just prior to its opening, Brinkley learned of the recent death of his good friend, philanthropist George Peabody. In his friend's memory, Brinkley named the new 425 room hotel "Hotel Peabody".

As famous as the hotel are its "Ducks". The tradition of the famous Peabody Marching Ducks began in 1932. Peabody General Manager Frank Schutt, an avid sportsman, and a friend Chip Barwick, returned empty-handed from weekend hunting trip in Arkansas. The two friends had a bit too much Tennessee sippin' whiskey, and decided to play a prank and put their live duck decoys (which were legal at the time) in the fountain in the hotel's Grand Lobby.

Three English call ducks were placed in the fountain, and the reaction from hotel guests was nothing short of enthusiastic. Soon, five North American Mallard ducks would replace the original ducks.

Today, the ducks are housed in the "Duck Palace" on the hotel roof. Every day at 11 a.m., they are led by the Duck master down the elevator to the Italian travertine marble fountain in the Peabody Grand Lobby. A red carpet is unrolled and the ducks march through crowds of admiring spectators to the tune of John Philip Sousa's King Cotton March. The ceremony is reversed at 5 p.m., when the ducks retire for the evening to their palace on the roof of the hotel.

The viewing spots around the fountain were well filled by the time we arrived , but we managed some well positioned spots over looking the performance to see this amazing possession & get some great photos - Very cute indeed & Bonnie & Bella would have loved chasing them...

The Peabody's famed ambassadors are five Mallard ducks – one drake with his white collar and green head, and four hens with less colorful plumage. The ducks are raised by a local farmer and a friend of the hotel. Each team lives in the hotel for only three months before being retired from their Peabody duties and returned to the farm to live out the remainder of their days as wild ducks. Very cute indeed.

A taxi then transferred us to "The National Civil Rights Museum", which is located @ the "Lorraine Hotel", the site of the assignation of Martin Luther King in 1968 - was closed, but we got some historical location photos.

We then returned to our hotel, collected our bags & headed to the airport. The flight stopped in Dallas/Fort Worth airport in Texas for a couple of hours - time enough for a Mango Margarita & a haircut - Which was certainly needed after 3 weeks of growing - felt like Bob Marley...

Arrived in New Orleans around 4pm & an 1hr later were in our hotel - the "Omni Royal Orleans" for 3 exciting nights in the vibrant city, almost wiped off the map a couple of years ago.

The hotel sits on the sight of the old "St Louis (Exchange) Hotel built in 1836 & is situated @ 621 St Louis St. The "St Louis Hotel" was the inaugural spot of the famed "free lunch". The custom was established in the main bar of the hotel because the management surmised that nourishment was needed by the noon-time drinkers of the city. So lunch was provided free to all patrons who bought atleast 1 drink.

1915 saw the "St Louis Hotel" destroyed by a hurricane, but it wasn't until 1960 that the "Royal Orleans Hotel" opened her doors, where the "St Louis" had reigned, bringing back the grandeur & dignity of that famous landmark.

Recently fully renovated & renamed the "Omni Royal Orleans", it sits smack-bang in the middle of the French Quarter,1 minute from the famous "Bourbon St", where a delightful Creole dinner was consumed with a drink or 3 to get into the spirit of this party location. Promises to be a fun-packed 3 days.

Thursday, May 3, 2007

Day 22 - 02/04/07: Chicago - Memphis

Up @ an ungodly hour this morning (4.50am to be exact) as we were on a 7.40am flight down to the city of Elvis Presley - Memphis,Tennessee. Perched gracefully on the Mississippi River & named after the ancient Egyptian Capital on the Nile.

We arrived early to be greeted by a brilliant Southern States Spring morning - warm & balmy & after dropping our bags at the hotel, arranged a 12pm tour to "Gracelands". Purchased in the Spring of 1957 @ age 22, Elvis spent $100k on this 14-acre estate named "Graceland".

The tour started by meeting @ a visitor's centre located across the road, where tickets & many, many souvenirs were sold & a selection of cafes were located - too many Elvis faces is never enough...a shuttle took us across Elvis Presley Boulevard and through the famous gates of Graceland mansion - one place where Elvis truly felt at home to commence the "full-tour":

First up was the Mansion Tour, which came with a audio-guided tour featuring a recording narrated by Priscilla with great sound bites from Elvis & Lisa Marie. The mansion tour consisted of the living room, music room, Elvis's parents' bedroom, the dining room, kitchen, TV room, poolroom, the amazing & funky "jungle" den and annex in the main house. To walk around the house where Elvis spent so many great years surrounded by family & friends was truly amazing. It has been left as it was when Elvis died on August 16, 1977, truly a study in 1970's decor & taste - a 15ft couch- avocado-green, lots of yellow vinyl & a have-to-see-it-to-believe-it green shag-pile carpet ceiling - Don't eat before you view it...

Behind the house, we toured Elvis's racquetball building, as well as his original business office. Also, a highlight of the mansion tour was Elvis's trophy building, which houses his enormous collection of gold records and awards, along with an extensive display of career mementos, stage costumes, jewelry, photographs, and much more.

The Mansion tour ended with a quiet visit to the Meditation Garden, where Elvis and members of his family have been laid to rest. This was really a sombre experience.

The "Sincerely Elvis" memorabilia collection was up next which featured 56 of Elvis's stage outfits from the major concert era of his career as well as walking us through the evolution of the design of Elvis's stage-wear of this era. We saw simple two-piece karate-inspired suits to the famed "jumpsuits" with elaborate rhinestones and matching capes.

We then cruised through Elvis’s car museum, featuring vehicles owned by Elvis. Highlights included Elvis’s famous 1955 Pink Cadillac, 1956 purple Cadillac convertible, 1973 Stutz Blackhawk, the red MG Elvis driven in Blue Hawaii, his Harley Davidson motorcycles and a three-wheeled super cycle - Too many vehicles is never enough.

Last up was Elvis’s Custom Jets where we had a chance to peek inside the small Lockheed Jet Star before walking aboard Elvis’s customized "Lisa Marie" jet. This jet featured a luxuriously appointed living room, conference room, sitting room, and private bedroom - the only way to travel.

All up we spent about 4hrs viewing this incredible & famous address & left with feelings of sadness for a lost talent, but with a much better understanding of the man behind the glasses, and the life he led.

On the return journey back we stopped at the famous "Sun Studios" founded in February of 1952 by Sam Phillips. He named it Sun Records as a sign of his perpetual optimism: a new day and a new beginning. Sam rented a small space at 706 Union Avenue for his own all-purpose studio and hit pay dirt in 1954 when Elvis walked through his doors. This was followed by Johnny Cash, the inimitable Jerry Lee Lewis, and the "Rockin' Guitar Man", Carl Perkins. These four soon became known as the Million Dollar Quartet & Sam & Sun Records never looked back.

From there it was onto "Beale St - Home Of The Blues" via a tram-car, their very convenient & cheap public transport. "Beale St" named after an unknown military hero in 1841, acted as General Ulysses S. Grant’s headquarters during the Civil War. But, Beale Street’s heyday was in the 1920's, when the area took on a carnival atmosphere and gambling, drinking, prostitution, murder and voodoo thrived alongside the booming nightclubs, theaters, restaurants, stores, pawnshops and hot music. One club, The Monarch, was known as The Castle of Missing Men due to the fact that its gunshot victims and dead gamblers could be easily disposed of at the undertaker’s place that shared their back alley.

The redevelopment of Beale Street is considered a catalyst in downtown Memphis’ rebirth. Over the past 20 years, the street has gone from the epitome of urban decay to the number one tourist attraction in the State of Tennessee.

One of the highlights was visiting "Autozone Park", where the "Memphis Redbirds" Baseball team, a AAA Minor League affiliate of the famous St Louis Cardinals. The 3 blocks from 2nd - 4th Streets were filled with clubs, restaurants & neon signs - Including The "Walk of Blues Fame" - similar to "Hollywood Walk of Fame" except that instead of Hollywood stars it's lined with Blues stars. The original "A Scwabs" Dry Goods Store & "BB Kings" restaurant. Dinners was @ TGI Fridays - The end of a great day.